żółty · The Western line
Szlak Zachodni
Six capitals in fourteen days, and it is the expensive one on purpose.
- Days14
- About, a day€70
- Legs6
- Night on board1
The one everybody should do once. Fast trains, open borders and beds that cost three times what they cost on the Karpacki. The way to afford it is to book the trains early: on this line the difference between an early and a late fare is bigger than the difference between a hostel and a hotel.
When. April to October. December's Christmas markets make it a different, good trip.
For whom. Someone with two weeks who wants the big cities, and who books ahead.
The hardest leg is Hamburg → Amsterdam. Over five hours with a change at Osnabrück. From 2 October 2026 to December 2027, four direct ICEs a day run from Hamburg-Harburg while the line is rebuilt.
The 6 legs come to about €225 in fares bought a few weeks ahead, and 26 h on the move. With a dorm bed, food and local transport every day, the whole szlak is about €986 — €70 a day. How we count.
- Kraków 2 nights then night train, 11 h
- Praha 2 nights then train, 4 h 10
- Berlin 3 nights then train, 1 h 47
- Hamburg 1 night then train, 5 h 15
- Amsterdam 2 nights then train, 2 h 05
- Bruxelles 1 night then train, 1 h 25
- Paris 2 nights the end of the line
Before you go, on this szlak
Borders, money, phones.
Borders
All Schengen: no border checks on the trains, though spot checks happen. Carry your passport or EU identity card.
Money
Złoty in Poland and koruna in Czechia; euro everywhere else. Cards work everywhere; in Praha, avoid street exchange booths.
Phone
EU roaming covers the whole route.
Clock
One time zone all the way.
Book ahead
- Kraków → Praha night train: the couchettes sell out.
- Amsterdam → Bruxelles and Bruxelles → Paris: early fares from €25–30, late ones over €100.
- Amsterdam beds: weeks ahead.
Buy on the day
- Berlin → Hamburg: a train every 30 minutes (flexible fares cost more).
Noclegi i odcinki (the nights and the legs)
The whole trail, stop by stop.
Times are the usual fastest journey. Fares run from booked early to bought late; dorm beds from low season to high. Prices in euro, 9 Oct 2026.
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Nights 1–2 · Poland
Kraków
2 nights
The cheapest two nights you will have for a fortnight. Enjoy them.
- Arrive
- Kraków Główny (trains) and the MDA bus station sit side by side under Galeria Krakowska; the Rynek, the main square, is ten minutes on foot. From the airport the train takes about 20 minutes.
- Sleep
- Stare Miasto (Old Town) or Kazimierz. A dorm bed costs about €12–22 a night.
- Do
- Walk the Planty, the park ring where the walls stood, then the Rynek and the Cloth Hall. Free.
- Wawel hill: the courtyards and the walls are free; the cathedral and the royal rooms are paid.
- Kazimierz, then the footbridge to Podgórze and Schindler's Factory museum (book a time).
- The Auschwitz-Birkenau Memorial, about 1½ hours away. Entry must be reserved in advance at visit.auschwitz.org, and it books out.
- Meet people
- Free walking tours (you tip what it was worth) leave from the Rynek every day, and most Old Town hostels run a pub crawl or a shared dinner.
- Worth knowing
- Eat in a bar mleczny, a cheap canteen: soup and pierogi for roughly 25–35 zł.
-
Night train Night 3, on board
Kraków to Praha
EuroNight Chopin (ČD / PKP)
- Time
- 11 h
- Runs
- 1 a night — 20:49 → 07:51
- Fare
- €29–45
Couchettes only, six or four berths, from Kraków Główny to Praha hlavní nádraží. By day: Leo Express (about six hours, from about €14) or ČD's EuroCity Cracovia and Silesia (about 6½ hours, from €19).
The couchettes sell out in summer. Book early.
Check and book on České dráhyLeo Express
-
Nights 4–5 · Czechia
Praha
2 nights
Two nights. Stay outside the centre — Žižkov or Vinohrady — and walk in.
- Arrive
- The night train arrives at Praha hlavní nádraží, the main station, ten minutes' walk from Wenceslas Square.
- Sleep
- Žižkov or Vinohrady. A dorm bed costs about €18–30 a night.
- Do
- Charles Bridge at seven in the morning, before the crowds.
- The Prague Castle grounds: free to walk; the buildings are paid.
- Letná park and its beer garden over the river; the fortress at Vyšehrad.
- The beer garden in Riegrovy sady at sunset.
- Meet people
- Free walking tours from Old Town Square; beer gardens are shared tables.
- Worth knowing
- Czechia uses the koruna. Pay by card or take cash from a bank's ATM; avoid street exchange booths and machines with high fees.
-
Train
Praha to Berlin
ČD / DB EuroCity
- Time
- 4 h 10
- Runs
- every 2 hours
- Fare
- €25–60
Direct trains along the Elbe, through Dresden, to Berlin Hauptbahnhof.
Sit on the right heading north for the hour along the Elbe gorge.
Check and book on Deutsche BahnČeské dráhy
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Nights 6–8 · Germany
Berlin
3 nights
Three nights and still not enough. This is the one to come back to.
- Arrive
- Trains from Praha arrive at Berlin Hauptbahnhof; the S-Bahn and U-Bahn go everywhere from there.
- Sleep
- Friedrichshain, Kreuzberg or Neukölln. A dorm bed costs about €20–35 a night.
- Do
- The Reichstag dome: free, but book online in advance.
- Tempelhofer Feld, the old airport turned park, runways included.
- The Berlin Wall Memorial on Bernauer Straße and the East Side Gallery. Free.
- Mauerpark on a Sunday: the flea market and, in summer, open-air karaoke.
- Meet people
- Free walking tours from the Brandenburg Gate; Mauerpark on Sunday afternoons.
- Worth knowing
- An AB ticket covers the city. Validate paper tickets before you board.
-
Train
Berlin to Hamburg
DB ICE / IC
- Time
- 1 h 47
- Runs
- every 30 minutes
- Fare
- €20–90
ICE and IC trains between the two Hauptbahnhöfe. The line reopened in June 2026 after ten months of rebuilding.
Super Sparpreis fares are the cheapest, and they tie you to one train.
Check and book on Deutsche Bahn
-
Night 9 · Germany
Hamburg
1 night
One night. A stop, not a stay — but a good stop.
- Arrive
- Trains from Berlin arrive at Hamburg Hauptbahnhof. The direct trains to Amsterdam during the 2026–27 works leave from Hamburg-Harburg, about 15 minutes away by S-Bahn.
- Sleep
- St. Pauli or St. Georg. A dorm bed costs about €25–40 a night.
- Do
- The Elbphilharmonie Plaza and its view over the harbour (a timed ticket, free on the day).
- The Speicherstadt warehouse district (UNESCO).
- Ferry 62 from Landungsbrücken: a harbour tour on an ordinary transport ticket.
- The Old Elbe Tunnel (1911): walk under the river. Free.
- Meet people
- St. Pauli and the Reeperbahn at night; hostels go out in groups.
- Worth knowing
- The Sunday Fischmarkt starts at dawn: go straight from the night out, or not at all.
-
Train
Hamburg to Amsterdam
DB / NS
- Time
- 5 h 15
- Runs
- every 2 hours with a change; 4 direct a day during the works
- Fare
- €33–80
Normally an IC to Osnabrück and a change to the Amsterdam train. From 2 October 2026 to December 2027, four direct ICEs a day run from Hamburg-Harburg to Amsterdam while the usual line is rebuilt.
The direct ICEs leave from Hamburg-Harburg, not the Hauptbahnhof: S-Bahn, about 15 minutes.
Check and book on NS InternationalDeutsche Bahn
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Nights 10–11 · Netherlands
Amsterdam
2 nights
The dearest beds on any szlak. Two nights, and book them first.
- Arrive
- Trains from Germany arrive at Amsterdam Centraal. For Bruxelles, the Eurostar leaves from Centraal and the cheaper Eurocity Direct from Amsterdam Zuid.
- Sleep
- Oost or Noord. A dorm bed costs about €35–70 a night.
- Do
- The free ferries behind Centraal across the IJ to Noord and the NDSM wharf.
- Vondelpark, the Jordaan and the canals on foot.
- A rented bicycle for a day: the city's own way of moving.
- Museums sell timed tickets; the Rijksmuseum and the Anne Frank House sell out weeks ahead.
- Meet people
- Hostel bars and free walking tours from Dam Square.
- Worth knowing
- The tap water is excellent, and supermarket lunches halve the food budget here.
-
Train
Amsterdam to Bruxelles
NS / SNCB Eurocity Direct · Eurostar
- Time
- 2 h 05
- Runs
- about 16 a day (Eurocity Direct)
- Fare
- €25–60
The Eurocity Direct leaves from Amsterdam Zuid — not Centraal — via Schiphol, Rotterdam and Antwerpen, with no reservation needed, from €25. The Eurostar from Centraal takes 1 hour 52, from €29.
Check and book on NS InternationalEurostar
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Night 12 · Belgium
Bruxelles
1 night
One night, and a good one if you go to Saint-Gilles.
- Arrive
- Trains from Amsterdam stop at Bruxelles-Central and Bruxelles-Midi; the Eurostar to Paris leaves from Midi.
- Sleep
- The centre or Saint-Gilles. A dorm bed costs about €25–40 a night.
- Do
- The Grand-Place (free), then the comic-strip murals around the centre.
- The flea market on Place du Jeu de Balle in the Marolles, every morning.
- Frites from a friterie, eaten standing.
- The Parvis de Saint-Gilles in the evening.
- Meet people
- The bars around Saint-Gilles and Place Saint-Géry.
- Worth knowing
- Midi station is fine by day; at night, keep your bag close.
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Train
Bruxelles to Paris
Eurostar
- Time
- 1 h 25
- Runs
- about every hour
- Fare
- €30–120
Eurostar from Bruxelles-Midi to Paris-Nord. The cheap alternative is a coach: FlixBus, about four hours, often under €25.
This leg decides the budget. Book it the day you book the first bed.
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Nights 13–14 · France
Paris
2 nights
It ends here. Two nights are too few, which is what the next trip is for.
- Arrive
- The Eurostar from Bruxelles arrives at Gare du Nord; the metro goes everywhere.
- Sleep
- Belleville, Canal Saint-Martin or Montmartre. A dorm bed costs about €30–55 a night.
- Do
- Montmartre and Sacré-Cœur, and Père Lachaise cemetery. Both free.
- The Canal Saint-Martin in the evening, and Parc de Belleville for the view.
- National museums are free for EU and EEA residents under 26, with ID; everyone else books a time slot.
- The Seine on foot from Notre-Dame to the Eiffel Tower.
- Meet people
- The Canal Saint-Martin and the banks of the Seine on warm evenings.
- Worth knowing
- A metro ticket costs about €2.50; buy one on your phone or on a Navigo Easy card.
The end of the Szlak Zachodni: 14 days, about €986. Checked 9 October 2026 — confirm every leg with its operator before you book.
The other four