Check before you go Routes checked 9 Oct 2026. Trains, fares and borders change: confirm every leg with its operator before you book. Why

SZLAK Plan a szlak →

Five marked routes · checked 9 Oct 2026

Legs, every one checked
0
Countries
0
Cheapest szlak
€0/day

Bartek. He looks at whatever you point at.

Going alone is the easy part.

The hard part is the change at Mockava, the bed you did not book, and the eleventh night running that you eat dinner standing up.

Plan a szlak →

What a szlak is

A marked trail is not an easier trail.

Szlak (shlahk) is Polish for a waymarked trail. The first in the Polish Tatras was painted in 1887, in red, from Zakopane to Morskie Oko. Today Poland's trails carry a blaze — a band of colour between two white bands, repainted onto trees, rocks and walls. Five colours are in use. The colour tells you which trail you are on. It does not tell you the trail is easy, and it was never meant to.

It is the same trail. The rocks are the same, the weather is the same, the distance is the same. What has been removed is the doubt: at any moment you can see the next mark, so you are never deciding, only walking.

That is the whole of what this site does, for a continent instead of a mountain. It does not make Europe cheaper or safer or shorter. It paints the next mark — every leg checked, every station named, every operator linked — so that going alone stops being a series of decisions made at a station at ten to eleven at night.

A red blaze — a band of red paint between two bands of white — hand-painted on a granite boulder.
Czerwony: a red blaze, painted by hand on granite. On a marked trail the next one is always in sight.

The planner

Where can you start?

Every city we route through, at its real coordinates. Pick where you start and what you have; we mark the rest.

Lisboa Porto Sevilla Donostia Bordeaux Paris Bruxelles Amsterdam Hamburg Berlin Wien Ljubljana Zagreb Split Mostar Kotor Sofia Veliko Tarnovo Brașov Budapest Košice Praha Kraków Warszawa Zakopane Vilnius Rīga Tartu Tallinn Helsinki

Bartek looks at the city you are pointing at.

Lambert conformal conic, standard parallels 43°N and 62°N. 129 cities at their real coordinates; the five lines are the szlaki, drawn through the cities they actually call at. Pick a marked city on the map, or any city from the list.

Before you book

Four things, in this order.

Nothing on this site is booked for you, and nobody is paid to be on it. Here is the order that saves the most money and the most evenings.

  1. 01

    The first two nights.

    Then stop. The rest are easier to choose from inside the country, once you know how fast you move.

  2. 02

    What runs once a day, or sells out.

    The night trains, the Eurostar, the one train a day from Rīga to Tartu, the Tallinn ferry on a summer Friday.

  3. 03

    Beds in the dear and the busy places.

    Amsterdam, Helsinki and Paris always; the Adriatic and the Basque coast in July and August.

  4. 04

    Check each leg the day before.

    On the operator's own site — every leg on every route page links to it. Timetables change, and the next big change is 13 December 2026.

  • Countries in Schengen19 of 21
  • EU roaming works in19 of 21
  • Emergency, everywhere112
  • Timetables change13 December

Documents, money, phones, health and safety →

One day, in full

Day 12 is the loose one.

Day 12 of 18 on the Szlak Adriatycki, written out the way we would spend it. Nothing is booked between waking and the evening, and that is a decision rather than a gap: by the twelfth day you have learned how fast you move, and you should be allowed to use it.

Every day has room for one spotkanie (a meeting — running into people). Never two. A second one turns a trip into a schedule, and the point is that you are still travelling alone.

A sample day; times and prices are approximate.

Where people meet, city by city →

Split A Thursday in June · day 12/18
07:30 wake Nothing booked until the evening. By day 12 you know how fast you move, and this is the day to use it.
08:30 eat The open-air market by the east side of the palace: fruit, a burek from a bakery, a coffee standing up. About €6.
09:30 walk Up Marjan from the Varoš steps for the view over the islands; down again by half past eleven. Free.
12:15 ferry Jadrolinija to Supetar on Brač: about 50 minutes, a few euros on foot. Buy at the port kiosk.
13:30 swim The pebble beaches west of Supetar harbour.
18:00 spotkanie The ferry back. The top deck at sunset is full of people doing what you are doing. Say something about the view.
20:30 eat Dinner in Varoš: a konoba plate of grilled fish or squid, €15–20.
22:00 nocleg A six-bed dorm in Varoš, €25–45 in June. The bed away from the door.

Beds

Six rules for a dorm.

The same mistakes, in the same order, at every hostel front desk in Europe.

  • Cheapest dorm · Veliko Tarnovo€11
  • Dearest · Amsterdam€70
01

Book the first two nights. Then stop.

Beds after night two are easier to choose from inside the country, and you do not yet know how fast you move. Everyone overestimates. You will want to stay somewhere an extra night, and you should be able to. (The exception: July and August on the coast, and Amsterdam always — book those early.)

02

Six beds is the floor. Ten is the ceiling.

Below six you have walked into somebody else's group. Above ten it stops being a room and becomes a corridor with beds in it, and nobody talks in a corridor.

03

A kitchen beats a bar.

A hostel with a working kitchen produces conversation, because cooking takes forty minutes and you cannot do it silently. A hostel with only a bar produces a queue.

04

Never the bed by the door. Never the one under the switch.

The door is opened forty times a night. The switch is above your head, and someone will find it at three in the morning with a phone in their mouth.

05

Arrive before 20:00 on your first night in a country.

Everything you get wrong — the wrong tram, the wrong banknote, the cash machine that eats the card — is cheaper in daylight and with the reception desk still open.

06

If the photographs have no people in them, there are no people in it.

A hostel that photographs its empty common room on a Tuesday morning is telling you what it looks like most of the time. Read the reviews from the last few months, not the last few years.

How to choose a hostel, and a dorm price for every city →

Budget

Twenty-nine euro a day is a real number.

A frugal day in each country on and around the routes: a dorm bed, food and local transport. Our estimate for 2026, not a quote.

  • Cheapest country · Bulgaria€29
  • Cheapest szlak · Karpacki€41
Bulgaria €29
Bosnia and Herzegovina €30
Romania €32
Serbia €33
Poland €34
Lithuania €35
Latvia €36
Slovakia €36
Montenegro €40
Estonia €41
Hungary €41
Czechia €42
Portugal €45
Slovenia €49
Croatia €51
Germany €53
Spain €53
Austria €57
Belgium €59
Italy €59
Finland €66
France €66
Netherlands €78
Bed Food Moving Bars are to scale against €80

Every figure, and how we arrived at it →

On your own

Nobody is coming to
find you, and that
is fine.

The thing people fear before a first solo trip is almost never being robbed. It is arriving at 22:40 with nowhere booked and nobody to eat with, and then doing that again the next night, and the night after.

So every stop on every szlak says where people meet — a kitchen, a walking tour, a queue, a sauna. One a day is enough, because you do not need a friend every day. You need one conversation, and then the day is not a test any more.

What we tell people who have not gone alone before →

Field notes

What changed this year.

The changes that would make you plan differently, dated, with where we read them.

2 Oct 2026

Hamburg · Amsterdam

Amsterdam–Hamburg runs direct, for now

While the usual line is rebuilt (until December 2027), four ICEs a day run directly between Amsterdam and Hamburg-Harburg — not the Hauptbahnhof. The usual route, with a change at Osnabrück, takes about 5 hours 15 minutes.

Source: NS International

14 Jun 2026

Berlin · Hamburg

Berlin–Hamburg is back to an hour and fifty

The line was closed for rebuilding from 1 August 2025. Since 14 June 2026 ICEs run between Berlin and Hamburg every half hour again, in about 1 hour 47 minutes.

Source: Deutsche Bahn press release

4 Jun 2026

Bosnia and Herzegovina · Montenegro

Balkan roaming: talks, not yet a deal

The EU agreed to open talks on bringing the Western Balkans into 'roam like at home'. Until they finish — 2027 at the earliest — EU phone plans still charge for roaming in Bosnia and Herzegovina and Montenegro.

Source: European Commission

6 Apr 2026

Vigo · Porto

Vigo–Porto by rail includes a bus until April 2027

Buses replace trains between Vigo and Valença until 7 April 2027. It matters if you go from Spain to Porto by rail rather than by the coach on the Atlantycki.

Source: Seat61, Portugal

All 8 changes →